A visit to Temples in and around Ernakulam and
Kottayam
There are some common aspects regarding temples in
Kerala which makes visits to temples there a unique, blissful and exhilarating
experience.
1) There are no touts or middlemen in any of the
temples offering to take you straight to the sanctum sanctorum for a
consideration depending on the size of the crowd. Everyone has to take his/her
turn in the queue. There is of course a separate entry point (official) for
VIPs, but even they are only allowed to join the queue at a particular point.
The practice of taking them straight inside is not allowed in any of the
temples.
2)All darshans are free and there is no system of
special darshan for a fee.(even in major temples like Guruvayoor)
3)Deeparadhanas are performed only at the times
fixed by the temple unlike in Tamilnadu where the priest shows Deeparadhana at
frequent intervals depending on his perception of the amount that will be
placed on his plate by the visitor.
4)Temples are maintained spick and span. The
temple Premises as well as the Pooja equipments are cleaned meticulously. Old
ladies are specially appointed only for the purpose of cleaning.
5)All temples have a strict dress code. Men have to
necessarily wear Veshti(Mundu). Shirts and Pants are not allowed. Similarly,
ladies are allowed to wear only sarees or half sarees.
6)Priests keep prasadams like Chandan, flower etc
in a plantain leaf and drop it into the hands of the devotees without touching
them.
7) People do not talk in loud voices inside the
temples and strict decorum is maintained.
8) Flowers are not sold outside the temples.
Flowers which grow inside the temples are arranged by temple staff. We can pay
them as per our wish and they directly hand over the flowers to the priest.
Another aspect we noticed was that temples open
early in the morning like 4 or 5 Am and except major temples like Guruvayoor
close between 10 and 11AM.Similarly, temples open by 5PM and close around 8PM
.No special dispensation or extended timings for anybody.
All these enhance the devotional aspects of the
temples and ‘Sannidhyam’ is felt and experienced by the devotee. Perhaps it is
because of this intense devotion that Gods are so pleased and the State generally
experience copious rains and Kerala is
called ‘God’s own country’.
Because of this
special attraction to temples of Kerala we undertook a trip to Kottayam
and Ernakulam to visit temples in and around these places. We get maximum time
in the mornings-almost from around 5 AM to about 11.30 Am. So, it is better to
schedule visits to temples in far off places in the mornings. Since the temples
are open only for about 21/2 hours in the evenings, it is better to visit
nearby temples. Also it is better to avoid visiting famous temples like
Guruvayoor, Chottanikkara etc during weekends, festival days, vacations etc
since there will be a huge crowd
By arranging like this, we were able to cover
maximum number of temples. It is also important to know the geography of the
place so that temples in close proximity can be visited together. Luckily, we
were able to get a driver who knew both the geography and short cuts so that we
could save a lot of time. For those who are planning a trip, his name is
Unnikrishnan.mob:9447725478.
Day1: forenoon. Since we could start only after
10AM, only 2 temples could be visited:
1)
Thirunakkara Mahadevar temple in the
heart of the city-Main and ancient Siva temple
2)
Thirunakkara Krishnan Temple –very
near the above
Day1-afternoon: In and around
Changanaserry about 20kms from Kottayam
1)Mahaganapathi kshetram in
Puthumana on the way to Changanaserry
2)Vazhapppalli – Mathumoolam –a
deviation on the route to Changanassery-Mahadevar temple –famous Mahaganapathi
Sannadhi
3) Sri Subramanyaswami temple in
Perunnai in Chenganassery
4)Trikkodiththaanam-Vaishnava
Divyadesam- 5kms from Changanassery
5)Panachiikaadu Saraswathi temple
on the way back to Kottayam –Vishnu temple in the front-No structure for
Saraswathi-a creeper in the pond serves as the structure
Day2: Forenoon:
It is considered auspicious to
have dharshan of the three Mahadevar temples at Ettumanoor, Vaikom and Kaduthuruthi
in the same trip. Accordingly we planned our visits in that direction:
1) Vaikom Mahadevar-about 40kms from
Kottayam in the Kottayam- Ernakulam route
2)Kaduthuruthi Mahadevar
temple -about 10 kms from Vaikom towards
Kottayam
3)Adityapuram-Suryadevar
temple-Just after Kaduthuruthi towards Kottayam
4)Mahaganapathi temple at Malliyoor in a side road on the highway leading to
Kottayam
5)Ettumanoor-Mahadevar temple
6)Kumaranallor Bagavathi temple
–in the same road 4kms before Kottayam- This is a Mariamman temple
Day2: Evening: Palai- about 30kms
from Kottayam
1)Kadappattor Mahadevar temple –
near Valiappalam in the road opposite to Panimala church
.2)Thrikkayil Mahadevar- Palai
near Meenachil Taluk NSSunion Office
3)Laalam Mahadevar temple-in the
heart of Palai town-150 metres from
Palai Municipal private stand. This is known as Dakshina Kasi
4)Puliyannoor Mahadevar
temple-about 500 metres from Ettumanoor-Poonja
State Highway
5) Kidangoor-Subramanyaswami
temple on the road from Palai to Kottayam. Ladies are not allowed beyond a
certain point.There is also a Vinayagar temple just next to this –very
beautiful
Day3:Morning:
1)Chakkulathukkavu Bagavathi-on
the road to Ambalapuzha from Kottayam
2)AmBalapuzha-Unnikrishnan
temple-famous for Paal Paayasam-But you
have to book for this in advance
3)Haripad-Subramanya swami
temple-
4)Mannarsalai-Ngaraja
temple-famous as a benign place of
serpent worship- known for the ceremony known as Uruli Kamizhthu performed by couple with no children. Several
couples have benefited by performing this ritual
5) Anjaneyar temple near Mannarsalai-
There is a sannadhi for Navagrahas with their counterparts
Day3:Evening:
1)Pallippuraththukkavu-Bagavathi
temple, located in the Southern part of Kottayam town
DAY4:Morning:
There are 5 Divyadesams in and around
Chengannur which can be visited at a stretch. The driver Unnikrishnan knew the
places thoroughly and took us in the right geographical order:
1)Thiruvallavazh: Divyadesam.
Vallaba kshetram: Perumal:Kolappiraan or Thiruvaazhmaarban. Thayar:
Selvaththirukkozhunthu Naachiyaar. 22 paasurams by Thirumangai Aazhvaar and
Nammaazhvaar
2)Thiruvanvandoor or
Thiruvamundoor: 6kms from Chengannur .2kms from ThiruvallavaazhPerumaal:
Paambanaiyappan,Thaayaar KAMALAVALLI
Naachiyaar 11 Paasurams sung by Nammaazhvaar
3)Thiruchenkunroor or
Thiruchchitrrar. Perumaal: Imayavaramban.Thayaar: Sengamalavalli.11 paasurams
sung by Nammaazhvaar
4)Thiruppuliyoor(Kuttanad):Perumaal:
Maayappiraan. Thaayaar:Porkodi Naachiyaar. 12paasurams sung by Nammaazhvaar and
thirumangaiaazhvaar
5)Thiruvaaranvilai:(AAranmula):
Perumaal: Thirukkuralappan. Thaayaar: Padmaasani. 11 paasurams sung by
Nammaazhvaar. This is situated on the banks of a lake where boat races are
held. The scenery is eyecatching.
Apart from the above 5
Divyadesams, we also visited Mahadevar-Bagavathi Kshetram in Chengannur
Day4: Evening:
About 20 kms from Paalai, in a
place called Ramavaram,there are 4 temples devoted to Rama, Lakshmana,
Bharathar and Satrugnar called Naalambalam They are in a circular route 4 kms
from each other. The temples open only after 5.30 Pm and Satrugnar temple closes
by 7PM.The circular route starts with Rama temple and ends there. We have to
start the darshan with Rama temple and worship Him once again at the end. It is
better to visit these temples in the morning.
DAY5: Morning:Panayannaarkavu Bagavathi
near Mannar
2)Thirukkuratti Mahadevan.
Krishnan Sannadhi in the same temple. Located in Main Road, Mannar
3)Sri Kunnathur Kulangara:
Bagavathi in Mannar-Swayambu-Devi is under the earth . Above that, there is a
kodi in arch shape.
4)Krishnaswammy Temple-Mavelikkara
5)Kandiyoor Mahadevar temple:
There are beautiful wooden carvings outside the Garbagraha.
6)About 15kms from
Kandiyoortemple,there is a Nagaraja temple in a place called Vettikkottur, but
by the time we reached there, it was closed. On enquiry, we were told that the
temple closes by 11.30 AM.
Day5: Evening: We left for Ernakulam in the evening. On the way,we had darshan of
Mahadevar temple at a place called Thalayolaparambu near Vaikom.
Day6: Morning:
1)
The famous Chottaanikkara
Bagavathi temple. Being a weekday, there was not much crowd and we had repeated
darshan to our heart’s content.
2)Keezhakkaavu Bagavathi just
opposite to the above. Saalagramam and Hanuman can be found in the Prakaaram.
3)Tripunithura-POORNATHRAYESA
Temple-Santhanagopalamurthy.Thursdays are considered auspicious for darshan.
Beautiful temple attracting hundreds of devotees.
Day6: Evening:
1)Thrikkakkara on the outskirts
of Ernakulam. Divyadesam. Perumal: Kaatkaraiappan. Thayar: Vaathsalyavalli or
Perunchelvanaayagi. 11paasurams sung by Nammaazhvaar.
2)Chekkankulangara near
Tripunithura-Sivan temple
3)Mukkoottil Bagavathi-just
behind Poornathreyaasar temple
4)Pandavathur Sivan temple in
Maradu near tripunithura
5) second visit to
poornathrayesaa temple. Because of Krishna Jayanthi next day, Uriyadi Utsavam
was going on.
Day7: Morning
1)
Kaladi birthplace of Adisankarar near
Angamali in the Ernakulam-Thrissur route. Here, there is an exhibition of
Adisankara’s history managed by Kanchi Sankara Mutt
2)
Poorna river in Kaladi
3)
Krishna temple very near Poorna river
The vigraham is made of a stone called anjanaa made of Copper and iron mainly.
4)
Saradambal Sannadhi,Adisankarar Sannadhi,Bridavana
of Aryambal, Mother of Adi Sankara maintained by Sringeri Sankara mutt in Kaladi.
Rooms are available for stay. Lunch is available at 1pm-stay and lunch to be
booked in advance .The phone number is 0484-2462350.
5)
Perumbavoor near Kaladi-Ayyappan
temple
6)
Iriangol Bagavathi –situated in a
dense forest area near Perumbavur. Very beautiful greenery
7)
Kuruppampadi –Subramanyar near Perum
bavoor
8)
Thirukkariyoor-Sivan-Perumbavoor
Day7:
Evening:
1)Edappalli-Mahaganapathi-Devotees
are allowed near Garbagraha only in the
mornings
2)Ernakulathappan-presiding
deity of Ernakulam city
Subramanyaswami-very
near the above
3)Anjaneyar
temple-Anjaneyar sitting on his own tail
Day8:morning
1)Thirumoozhikkalam
: The road just oppaite to the Road leading to Nedumbasseri airpotrt on the way
to Angamali has to be taken’ Divyadeam.Perumal:Thirumoozhikkalaththaan. Believed
to be temple of Lakshmana.Thayar:Maduraveni nachiyar. 11 pasurams sung by
Nammaazhvar
2)Kothakulangara
Bagavathi near Angamali
3)Mukkannoor-Kooththala
Bagavathi near Angamali
4)
Kidangoor near Angamali- Mahavishnu temple
5)Alwaye
Mahadevar- no Garbagriham only top is covered Periyar river is running nearby
Alwaye
Krishnan temple with Sannadhi for Balaramar
Day8:
Evening
1)second
visit to Trikkakkara
2)Kurumbukkavu
Bagavathi in Edathala near Alwaye
3)Painattu
Sri Durga in EdathalA
Day9:
Morrning
1)Paravoor:
18kms from Ernakulam- Kothuvallikkavy Bagavathi
2)
Sri Krishnaswami-Kannankulangara, Paravoor
3)Dakshina
Mookambika kshetram,Paravoor-Being Sunday, there was a large crowd of parents
with their children offring for Pooja pens, pencils etc
4)Thiruvanjikkalam-20kms
from Paravoor-Sivankoil-Padal Petra Sthalam by Sundaramoorthi Nayanar near
Kodungallor
5) Krishnaswami
temple (Thiru Kulasekarapuram-TKS
Puram)in Thiruvanjikkalam
6) Kulasekara Perumal
temple- Thiruvanjikkalam is the Avatharasthalam of Kulasekara Aazhvar. His
ishtadeivam is Sri Ranganathar .Aaradhani Deivam is Ramar. Azhvar is wearing
Ranganathar dollar.Temple closes by 10-30 in the morning
7)Famous Bagavathi
temple in Kodungalloor
On the evening of 9th
day, we left for Chennai
On the whole, it was an exhilarating experience.
All the teples we visited were ancient and historical. Apart from the religious
aspect, the travel by road itself was invigorating to the Body and soul. In the
entire stretch of our journey, we could see lush greenery and water bodies on
both sides of the road. It looked as if God, while creating the Universe poured
all the beauty in one place. I strongly recommend to one and all to start
visiting these places leaving aside the insipid TV serials.
For the information of devotees good vegetarian
Hotels in Kottayam are: Arya bhavan,Ananda Mandiram, Anandha Bhavan.In
Ernakulam-Sarovaram near Maradu, Bharat Tourist Home and Dwaraka in the city
.
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